Dog Care
Bringing out the breed
Being able to bring out a dog’s natural instincts is a key component to keeping him happy and fulfilled. It’s the secret to a calm and balanced life. Knowing your dog is one of the most important and rewarding parts of being a pack leader. It sets the foundation for your relationship just like the walk. The reason for this is simple – dogs migrate, and the walk allows them to fulfill that instinctual need.
Too often I see dog owners who think the walk is about the bathroom. It’s not. Your walk isn’t over when your dog has eliminated. Your walk is over when you feel his energy is sufficiently drained and he is in a calmer, more balanced state than when you started. For some dogs, especially senior dogs, this may take 15 minutes.
For active puppies, that may mean two hours. When walking the pack, we don’t stop. We keep moving, unless I decide it’s time for us to take a break and then they can eliminate and do their business. Obviously dogs that live in apartments or condos without yards need to use the walk for the bathroom too, but once they finish, the walk should be about nothing more than the walk itself.
When dogs that have backyards stop constantly during the walk to pee, they are not doing it because they really need to go. They are marking territory. They smell another dog’s scent and they want to mask it with their own. Both males and females do this and in my opinion, it’s behavior you want to avoid. It may not seem like a huge problem now, but territorial behavior can escalate into very serious problems. The walk should be exercise and if you are leading your dog and incorporating rules, boundaries, and limitations then it’s discipline too. And that means you’re challenging the mind at the same time. See how it all ties together?
For example introducing a Shepherd mix to sheep herding as Shepherds are workers. They like to think and use their body. They need and crave physical exertion and mental stimulation.With this you would have a super tired, very happy, calm and fulfilled dog!”
Another example – have you ever seen a Labrador or Portuguese water dog when they are in the water? If I meet one of these dogs and they don’t love to swim, I know they are not balanced and have some problems. They have lost their instincts and have forgotten how to be a dog. This is when they need rehabilitation. But when I see a happy-go-lucky lab frolicking in the ocean, I smile inside and out, knowing that is a dog who is fulfilling an instinctual need.
Learn about your dog’s breed. Yes, they are animals first, then species, and THEN breed, then name. The breed does not make a dog – I always say it’s the human behind the dog. But that doesn’t mean that breed should be discounted. Certain breeds, especially herding, sporting, and working breeds have particular instincts that we need to honor and respect in order to fulfill the dog. So do your research and learn what makes your dog tick and try it out!
If sheep herding doesn’t click, try swimming or search and rescue or agility or tracking classes. For some dogs, just incorporating running or rollerblading into your walking regimen is enough stimulation physically and mentally to keep your dog fulfilled. The point is, let this be a part of getting to know your dog even better. Trust me, you will strengthen your bond and both of you will feel a sense of wholeness deeper than you ever though was possible.
Dog care in the busy world
In today’s busy world, finding time to adequately exercise your dog can be a real challenge.
However taking the step to ensure your dog gets some form of exercise every day. Your commitment is admirable!
If at all possible, try to find 15 minutes at least 3 times a week that you can personally work with your dog. And take advantage of weekends or days off to spend much more quality, focused time with your dog. Doggie day care and dog walkers are great, but they won’t do much to teach your dog to respect you as pack leader.
Make those 15 minutes really count by taking your dog through a short obedience routine. You might choose to have your dog to walk beside you, turn when you do, or sit and stay on command. You decide on the activity, remembering that anytime you get your dog to do anything for you, you are empowering yourself as his leader. You are also providing your dog with a significant psychological challenge. This activity combined with the exercise routine you have already established for your dog should result in a happy, fit and balanced pup!
Puppy training
New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right accessories, puppy treats, or bed. They spend little or no time thinking about how or what they will teach their new puppy. Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live, but another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader.
Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable, and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget. Many of my clients are strong leaders in their jobs, but when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me puzzled as to why their dog won't behave.
Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When this happens, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.
The most important thing you can do is become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad. For your puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one!
Please find SAFE ways to exercise your puppy! Talk to your veterinarian about the risk of long-term bone development problems, parvovirus, and other health issues before implementing an exercise routine.
Housebreaking
Housebreaking often brings on feelings of nervousness and worry, but the process does not have to be stressful—for you or the puppy.
The truth is this is a situation in which you have Mother Nature working with you right from the start. When the puppies are first born, they eat and they relieve themselves inside the den, but the mother always cleans them. There is never a scent of urine or feces where the puppies eat, sleep, and live. When they get old enough, they learn to use outside areas as they imitate their mother.
In this way, all dogs become conditioned never to eliminate in their dens. From two to four months of age, most pups pick up on the concept of housebreaking quite easily since it is part of their natural programming.
Another built-in plus when it comes to housebreaking is our puppy’s digestive tract, which is extremely quick and efficient. Five to 30 minutes after the puppy eats, she’ll want to defecate. So with a consistent eating schedule, and your attention to the clock, your puppy can maintain regular trips outside.
In the early days of housebreaking, you also want to make sure the puppy has a place to relieve herself where she feels safe; a place that seems and smells familiar. Have you noticed how dogs will often eliminate in the very same spot they’ve done so before? The scent acts like a trigger.
As always, remember that your own energy is a big factor in your housebreaking efforts. If you are feeling nervous or impatient or are trying to rush a puppy to relieve herself, that can also stress her out. Using a loud, high squeaky tone to encourage your puppy to “go potty” is a distraction to the dog, so try and avoid any conversation at all.
First thing every morning, bring your puppy outside to the same general area. It is important to remain consistent throughout the process so your puppy can learn the habit.
Once your puppy has successfully gone outside, it is important to reward the good behavior. It doesn’t have to be a big, loud celebration, but a simple quiet approval or a treat can get the message across of a job well done.
Don’t punish your puppy for an accident or do anything to create a negative association with her bodily functions. Stay calm and assertive and quietly remove the puppy to the place where you want him to go.
Done correctly, housebreaking should not be a turbulent production but just a matter of putting a little extra work into getting your puppy on a schedule during the first weeks after she arrives at your home. Don’t let unnecessary stress over this very natural, uncomplicated process taint any of the joy surrounding your new dog’s puppyhood.
Puppy development stages
For any successful pack leader, it's important to have a keen understanding of the way your puppy will develop. Puppyhood is a relatively short stage in your dog's life, but it's also one of the most crucial. The majority of responsible breeders will wait until a puppy is two months old before allowing you to adopt. These two months allow the puppy to spend time with its littermates and learn basic social skills. For families who are expecting puppies born at home, we've put together a handy reference to guide you through what you can expect from the early stages of development.
Stage 1: Birth - 2 weeks
After an initial gestation period of approximately 2 months, a puppy is born blind and deaf - less developed than a human baby. This first stage of development is often referred to as "neonatal." For most of this stage, the puppy is entirely dependent on its mother In addition to their sensory handicap after birth, their movement is severely limited, they cannot regulate their own body temperature, and they require special stimulation to remove waste products. They can, however, cry, and the suck reflex is already strong. Smell, touch, and taste are all active and strong. Within the first week after birth, a puppy will normally double its own weight.
The puppy's ear canals will open right around the 2 week mark, allowing it to hear sounds for the first time. The sense of hearing will fully develop over the course of the next few stages. Socialization is important at every stage of a puppy's life, but is perhaps most important during the neonatal period. The puppy will be learning the basics from its mother and littermates; movement, social etiquette, and most important of all: rules, boundaries, and limitations!Stage 2: 2 - 4 Weeks
The puppy's eyes will open at or around the beginning of this second stage of development. His new sense of sight will be limited and very sensitive, so to avoid eye damage, care must be taken to protect him from bright lights. Despite these limitations, the puppy will now begin to recognize and interact with things in his environment, including (most importantly!) his mother and littermates. Many experts consider this the "toddler" stage of development as the puppy becomes more alert and learns to crawl, stand, and ultimately walk. With this new mobility, he will also begin to attempt to better explore his surroundings.
As the second stage progresses, the puppy's body becomes better at regulating its own temperature. However, he still depends mostly on his mother and the ambient temperature in the environment to maintain a healthy balance. Rapid or extreme temperature changes can be harmful to his system. The first teeth emerge during this stage, and as the puppy learns to lap he will become more comfortable and better equipped to drink milk from a bottle or dish if necessary rather than relying on his mother as the only source of nourishment. In addition, the puppy's instinct to relieve himself away from the den will kick in, and he should no longer require any external stimulation to urinate or move his bowels.
Near the end of the second stage of development, the puppy's sense of hearing continues to improve, and sight and smell should already be well-developed. The order in which these senses fully mature will continue to inform the way he experiences the world around him: nose, eyes, and then ears. It's important at this stage to encourage the bond between the puppy and human beings by exposing the puppy to gentle handling by human caretakers.
Stage 3: 4 - 12 Weeks
Week 4 to week 12 typically comprise the third stage of puppy development. During this stage, the senses begin to mature and socialization becomes an important part of the puppy's life. It is critical during this key phase that the puppy be able to interact with other dogs and with people.
For the first few weeks of this phase, it's likely that the only other dogs the puppy will have access to are his mother and littermates. His normal body temperature should be approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and his system will begin regulating that temperature naturally.
Additionally, the instinct to squat will take over and external stimulation will no longer be required for the puppy to move his bowels.
Early socialization will manifest as a basic kind of play with the puppy's littermates - wrestling and a reserved play-biting known as "inhibited bite." This is the way in which the puppy will begin to learn about social structure and pack ranking. Rules, boundaries, and limitations set by his mother begin to take shape. Physical co-ordination and eyesight are still not fully developed, but the puppy's mobility will have progressed beyond wiggling, rolling, and flopping around.
Weeks 5 through 7 are a good time for the puppy to begin his early socialization with people.
His sense of hearing should be well-developed enough to allow the possibility of command conditioning using positive reinforcement, as well as name recognition - the puppy will begin to respond to the name that his human handlers have chosen for him. But remember: he will always be animal first, then species, then breed, and THEN name.
The puppy's fear response to sudden startling sights and sounds will begin to emerge at or around this point in his development, so exposure to any normal household objects and noises and association with positive experiences is very important. Also, the kind of play that puppy is used to with his littermates, including the "inhibited bite," or "mouthing," may begin to appear in his interaction with his human handlers. It is crucial to remember that this kind of behavior can often escalate and lead to dominance or aggression, and should be discouraged. Even during this late phase, make sure to stay alert about the possibility of infection. The health of the puppy should be carefully monitored, as should any and all interaction with human handlers who may pose a risk of communicable disease. The puppy should receive another worming at this stage, and then regular monthly wormings from this point on. And you should discuss with your vet inoculations that could help to boost the puppy's immunities. Sometime around week 6 or 7, the puppy should begin the weaning process, moving from mothers milk onto formulas and then ultimately solid foods that his human handlers will provide.
Week 8 is where you can expect to come into your new puppy's life if you have chosen to adopt through a reputable breeder. Make sure that you coordinate with the breeder and your veterinarian to determine that the puppy has been wormed prior to the adoption and to find out what shots, if any, the puppy may still need.
Because the puppy has spent his early weeks developing in the company of his mother and his brothers and sisters, his mental processes should be mature enough to handle the move from the breeder to your home, and he should be receptive to training. Still, just because your puppy has been socialized doesn't mean he doesn't still need your guidance from day one! Don't forget to get right to work setting your new pack's rules, boundaries, and limitations and consistently enforcing them. Your new puppy is easily influenced by your pack leadership, so keep it balanced and consistent! Housetraining and introduction to the sights and sounds of your puppy's new home should begin right away. Positive experiences associated with the various new elements of your puppy's life will help ensure a smooth transition. And don't forget that your puppy is still a social animal! If you have no other dogs or pets, try to find calm, vaccinated dog pals for him to interact with. This could prevent issues that may arise later on from lack of socialization
Stage 3: 3 - 6 Months
Stage 4 begins your puppy's introduction to independence, but may also create some possible frustrating situations for you. With her senses more or less fully developed, and her improved physical coordination, the puppy is entering into a phase that is remarkably close to toddlerhood in human beings. Think "terrible twos" on a canine level.
During this stage, the puppy will attempt to determine the social rankings within her new "pack". This may include the same kind of play-fighting that she engaged in with her brothers and sisters, but now directed at you and the rest of her new "littermates." In wild packs, these kinds of dominance games serve a vital function. Puppy is testing her boundaries within her social circle, seeing if she has what it takes to physically challenge her peers and even you, her pack leader. If you don't step in and discourage this kind of dominance-seeking behavior early on - or, worse yet, if you allow your puppy to "win" at dominance games such as wrestling or Tug-of-War - it could set the stage for more serious challenges to your leadership down the road.
Play-biting may also escalate during this stage, and it should be considered vitally important to correct this behavior rather than allow it to continue. Be sure to correct immediately to allow the puppy to connect the behavior with the correction, and be consistent!
Between months 4 and 6, you may find your puppy exhibiting signs of a return to the flight phase that she went through during or around week 8. However, unlike at 8 weeks, when the puppy's flight was fueled by her reaction to the startling new environment, this new phase will be more closely associated with the independent and rebellious stage that she's going through. A collar and leash will provide the crucial physical connection between you that can keep her from bolting when you approach. Do not allow her to roam off leash in any open or highly populated public area until she demonstrates to you that she is willing to accept your commands. And don't forget your most powerful tool: your calm-assertive energy and balanced pack leadership!
Hide your designer shoes! During stage 4, you can expect your puppy to begin teething, which means that unless you provide her with suitable chew toys to occupy herself and relieve her discomfort, she is liable to destroy some of your treasured belongings. Many people take this kind of destructive behavior as a form of "personal" rebellion by the puppy, but think about it. Doesn't it make sense that the puppy would seek out as attractive items that are most saturated with your scent? If your puppy does find and mangle a precious possession of yours, DO NOT react with anger! Remember to maintain balance and provide firm, calm corrections. Once you have corrected your puppy, immediately provide her with an acceptable substitute to make the connection in her mind. Frozen bones may provide pain relief for a dog in great discomfort and also a reward for responding to your corrections with calm-submissive energy.
During this stage, many new owners become concerned by the sight of blood on their new puppy's chew toys. Don't panic. This is a completely natural part of this phase of the puppy's development as she begins to lose her milk teeth. Still, if you have persistent concerns, be sure to discuss the matter with your family veterinarian. Ask about proper dental care - when and how to brush (ideally once a week or more) and which products to use. Certain products such as raw bones may be perfect both for soothing the dog's chewing instincts and for removing plaque and tartar buildup around her teeth and gums.
Finally, this stage will usher in the beginnings of sexual maturation in your puppy, which may lead to some extra frustrations. Marking and scenting can become a problem around the house even if the puppy has been successfully housebroken. The best and safest way to avoid these problems while simultaneously decreasing the chances of many future health risks is to have her sterilized if you haven't already done so. Sterilization is a still debated topic among many dog owners and veterinarians, but most veterinary professionals agree that a safe and optimal time to have the procedure done is when the puppy is about 6 months old.
Choosing the right dog
Choosing a dog is a decision that should be made with care and deliberation. A dog is not a toy or a clothing accessory; it's a living creature. The decision to adopt a dog should be treated with the same careful attention that you would use if you were deciding where to live, to have children, or whether or not to get married.
Too often, a dog is adopted because it is "cute" or "fashionable" rather than based on the merits of its behavior and energy levels. In these situations, the dog may be returned to the rescue shelter, kennel, or pet store, and each return is a black mark on that dog's record. It suggests that the dog is un-adoptable, and the more often a dog is returned, the more likely it is to eventually be euthanized.
When selecting a dog, it is vitally important to take into account how that dog’s energy will harmonize with your own. The most important step is to take some time for self-reflection and to identify what your own energy levels are. Do you wake up early every morning, pound a power bar and a health shake, and go for a run in the mountains? Or do you take life at a more leisurely pace? When energy levels conflict, resulting frustrations on the part of both human and dog can create tensions and issues with dramatic repercussions, so take into account how your energy will affect your decision.
Once you’ve identified your own energy levels, begin your research on dogs and their energy levels. Remember, a dog's breed doesn't necessarily dictate its personality, but some breeds are known for having a certain energy or disposition. Once you’ve done your breed research, you can begin your search for a dog with a few ideas in mind. It never hurts to be prepared.
If you decide to begin looking at shelters and rescues, keep in mind that a dog in a cage at a shelter will be difficult to appraise in terms of its level of energy. Dogs in cages for any significant length of time can be frustrated and edgy. It may help to have a professional or someone with some expertise assist you in gauging your potential dog's energy levels.
Don't be afraid to ask the rescue staff about the dog. They aren’t concerned with getting dogs out the door at any cost - most are dedicated to finding good homes for the dogs in their care – so you can be pretty confident that they'll give you the straight story. Find out what the dog is really like and how he gets along with the staff and the other dogs. How does he act at mealtimes? What is he like when people come by to view the other dogs? The answers to questions like these will give you a better idea of what he will be like with you and your family at home.
The walk is an excellent litmus test for a new dog. Find out from the shelter if you can “test drive” the dog that you're interested in. Take him out for a spin around the block and see how the two of you get along. Not only will you get an early idea of how you work together in a pack-oriented activity, but you’ll get a better understanding of his underlying temperament once you’ve drained away the frustration and pent-up energy he has from being in his cage.
Most importantly, do your best to leave your emotions at the door. You will have plenty of time to bond with your dog once you've brought him home and incorporated him into your family. For his sake and yours, try not to let the environment of the shelter and the weight of the decision influence you. Adoption centers can be heart-breaking places if your thoughts are focused on the fate of every single dog present. It’s crucial for you to choose the right dog, and not just one that you feel sorry for. Feeling pity for a homeless dog won't benefit him or you in the long run.
Keep an open mind, do your research, and have patience! In the end, you'll both be better off for it.
